Athos is a place where little changes.  They continue using the Julian calendar which is about 13 days behind the western, Gregorian calendar.  They also time their services on Byzantine time, which begins at sunrise, and since this is a mountain sunrise is different in different places.  Because of this services always started at odd times by my watch.  All monasteries had matins, vespers, and liturgy at their own times.  Matins could begin anytime from 3:00 am to 6:00 am.  The length of services also varied from place to place.  Since the services were all in Greek, except at Moni St. Pantelemonos which used Church Slavonic, I sometimes I didn't know when matins changed to the liturgy until I heard a phrase I recognized.  But that was okay, we don't go to church for an intellectual understanding, but to participate in the reality of divine worship.  Just being there was all that was needed. 
   After several days of getting only 4-6 hours of sleep (monks can sleep during the day, I couldn't, but I learned to) I was exhausted.
  
  From Great Lavra I crossed the 'desert' of the Holy Mountain.  It isn't really a desert, it's just called that because it is very hot and dry.  In the picture you can see where the side of a mountain collapsed.  Many monks were buried when it happened centuries ago.  It is still a dangerous place, in his book Wounded by Love, my priest's spiritual father Elder Porphyrios said he was almost killed here.  He also told my priest that he could smell myrrh from the holy people buried beneath.
  A hermitage way, way up on a mountain cliff.  I am not sure how the monks would get there.  There must be a stairway from the other side.  You can see a pipe of some kind running up the mountain on the lower left of the picture.
   The monastic community of Kefsokalivia.  This is where Elder Porphyrios lived when he first came to Mt. Athos, and where he reposed.  Kefsokalivia is like a village of individual hermitages with one church near the top.  They had a service very late and it just kept going and going.  After falling asleep standing I finally went to bed about midnight.  The next day I heard someone say there was an all night vigil, though I'm not sure what the festival was.
  Another very remote hermitage.  There didn't seem to be any way down so the monks must only come and go by ferry.
  This little fellow crossed my path while I was crossing the desert.
  After leaving Kefsokalivia I walked to Skete Agia Anna. 
  I was outside just as the sun was going down.
  Hay loft.  In the desert there were a lot of mules.  My priest said they are like the cars of the Holy Mountain. This little kitty had a nice view point of the boats coming and going in the harbor. 
  Next I went to Moni Dionysiou.  I had originally planned to go here first and stay for a few days but they were celebrating the feast of their patron saint, St. John the Baptist, and I had to change my plans.  I still wanted to stay for a while, but the guest master didn't speak English so I moved on the next day.
  I took the ferry back to Daphni and then walked to Moni St. Pantelemonos.  While in Daphni I snapped this picture of a monk I thought must be a hermit.  In his right hand is a prayer rope.  Monks, as well as lay people, use this in a ascetic practice called hysechia.
  Some hermits have some craft so they can buy whatever they can't grow.
  The most beautiful monastery I stayed in was St. Pantelemonos, the Russian monastery.  It was also one of the biggest.  Unlike all the others I stayed in the services were in Church Slavonic, a liturgical language used by Slavic nations.
  When I first saw the clock tower from the ferry I thought it was beautiful, but it was too bad the time was wrong and it must be broken.  Later I realized that the monasteries keep Byzantine time. 
  The main blue building was the residence of the monks.  There was also a large church inside that was used while the one in the middle of the monastery was being renovated.
  Wide view of the monastery.


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